The City of Scheherazade--July 10-11

Merv

When one of the great cities of history is obliterated into desert rubble, it's worth a look to see how it all may end for us. Merv was a sparkling oasis even before Alexander the Great passed through. Christians, Zoroastrians, and Buddhists (this was one of the most western towns they inhabited) all lived together peacefully. During the peak of the silk road in the 11th and 12th centuries, the city even surpassed Baghdad in learning and culture. Scheherazade of the 1001 Nights is said to have found inspiration here.

Imagine in 1221 when you see several thousand Mongol tribesmen appearing out of the desert, and they're heading your way--pissed--and there's nowhere to run. The entire population was slaughtered and beheaded with swords and axes. Every Mongol horseman was under orders to butcher 300-400 people. Those who managed to escape made a deal to save their lives. The Mongols allowed them back into the city, and tore them to pieces, too. In all, about 1,000,000 were dead at the end of the day. Next, the Mongols leveled the city into rubble, and that was that. Never make a Mongol angry. Pay that tithe of grain.

A 4-hour drive east of Ashgabat takes me to the ancient ruins of Merv, a mandatory stop for anyone interested in old Middle East history. I have a new guide today, Angela, and a family from Wisconsin to share the car with. They are delightful.

There's not much to the ruins, but the day is incredibly worthwhile. There are no tourists out here, no signs saying don't touch, no walkways to stay on. I am free to crawl around anything I want.

For some reason this Internet connection will only let me upload some pictures, not all. Here's the few that made it:

The Shahriyar Ark, or citadel of Merv. This is just one small part (and the best) of the vast ruins.

Outside the ancient city of Merv is a Sufi shrine that attracts pilgrims from all over. There is an area to the side where the women prepare food, people can sleep, etc. Here we have some chickens with their throats slit and bled in preparation for s0me yummy stew.

The caretaker of one of the mausoleum's just outside of Merv.

Acres of carpets and every other knick knack imagineable at the Tolkuchka Bazaar, the grand swap meet of Central Asia outside of Ashgabat.