Ashgabat
How to kill time in Ashgabat:
*Take a taxi ride across the city to the Internet cafe: 40 cents
*Drink a can of Sprite along the way: 35 cents
A few ramblings:
Since Niyazov, the Great Turkmenbashi--father of all Turkmens--died last December, the shroud of paranoia has lifted considerably. For example, the checkpoints and searches along the highway that added two hours to any trip are gone and so are the alleged soldiers that stood guard outside this Internet cafe (although my name and passport number are documented every time I've been in here). That said, guards are everywhere. I wander freely about the city and find one street with several awesome gold Turkmenbashi statues and busts. My favorite is one where he's sitting, looking kind of pensive, kinda goofy. As soon as my camera comes out, a guard blows on his whistle. No, no, no. Sorry, sorry, sorry. Must be some ministry. Another gold statue stands alone in a park amongst the trees, looking kinda lonely.
Ironically, I can rapid-fire shoot pictures of Turkmen women to my heart's content. They dig it, whether they're blood-letting chickens, selling melons, or visiting ruins in the desert. In fact, they try to pile in front of the camera. And they have cameras, too, and I'm in their pictures, of which they're undoubtedly shrieking their heads off on some Turkmen version of My Space. Mutual curiosity on how strange both sides look here. The best thing in this country is the genuine friendliness and hospitality of the Turkmen--as yet unspoiled by hoards of tourists, an advantage to the country being so hard to get into.
Advantages of being a Turkmen:
*Round trip flights across the country for about $5 (and on a Boeing, not a Yak or some other former Soviet horror.
*I carry 3 liters of liquid on board a plane from Mary (Merv) to Ashgabat. No problem. Don't have to take my shoes off either.
*Gasoline is virtually free.
Off this afternoon to Darvaza in the middle of the Karakum Desert. Uzbekistan the next evening. Will post again in a few days.
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2 comments:
I'm insanely jealous of your trip! I've lived in Iran, have spent time in Uzbekistan, and love that part of the world. I've dreamed of doing just what you are doing, so I eagerly look forward to each posting.
Hi Pam,
The blog is fabulous! And the pictures are so great! I didn't expect you would be able to post as often as you have or post nearly as many photos. It sounds like you're having a wonderful trip and meeting some really nice people along the way. And I can almost feel like I'm there with you in the blog!
Susan and I have been sending copies of the blog to Gwyn every week. She is so excited to have the pages in print to read over and over, and to show her friends, even though she has seen it on Joan's computer.
Did you really say a round trip airfare for $5??? At the rate we're going here, it won't be long before that won't even buy a gallon of gas!
Keep up the great work on the blog--I look forward to the latest posts and pictures, as does Gwyn!
Talk to you again soon.
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