Tuesday, July 24, 2007

The Aral Sea RIP--July 15

200 km from Nukus, the once prosperous fishing village of Moynaq stands testimony to the world's worst environmental catastrophe: the disappearance of the Aral Sea.

Once the 4th largest lake in the world (about the size of Lake Michigan), it always appeared as the geography bonus-point question next to its flashy big brother, the Caspian Sea. Now only 20% of its former self remains, gasping for life. A totally idiotic policy, beginning back to the time of the tsars, and continuing with gusto by the Soviets, to turn the deserts of Central Asia into a cotton-growing powerhouse by diverting theAmu Darya River into unlined canals was just the start of a deliberate decision to let the Aral Sea just dry up. Add to the equation fertilizers, pesticides (DDT), and defoliants used with reckless abandon and you soon have an ungodly disaster on your hands. Salinity of the soil, contaminated groundwater, regional dust storms, climate change, horrific health problems, deformed babies, miscarriages--the works. Sad part is, since this is the butt end of Central Asia, no one cares--nor ever cared.

If ever a town needed massive handouts of antidepressants, it's Moynaq. Faded and once happy nautical motifs remain; a few trees still survive, but most are dead; dust blows through the streets. Now it has gained some notoriety as the furthermost outpost of extreme tourist prurient curiosity. Rusted fishing boats lie high and dry in a waterless and blighted formerlake bed . It's incredibly sad as a visitor. I can't imagine how the residents cope. Nothing is left. Their livelihood is gone; the last indigenous species of fish has died; few animal species are left. Soon the last person will leave. Don't bother locking up.


Welcome to Moynaq





At the former Aral Sea

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Moydaq and the Aral Sea...what a terrible and sad tale...Thanks for the telling of it. We need to hear these things and be warned (oh, those who lust after more density and freeways)
tu querida amiga