I know a few of you out there have had the adventure of flying in a Soviet-era AN-24. I wonder how many more decades these things will stay in the air?
For various reasons--time, money, and geography--I have no choice but to fly from Bishkek to Osh in one of these prop planes. It is surely more terrifying than any monster ride at a county fair.
A humongous thunder and rain storm in Bishkek doesn't bode well, but it clears. Off we go! The guy in front turns to me and motions that this is his first time flying. I tell him this is not a normal flight or plane. The man next to me tells me he is from the Sudan. He has a really loud giggle I find irritating. The engines are noisy as hell, and things aren't too bad until we hit a rain cloud. The plane bounces; it drops. The rain pelts the plane like tiny BBs. I put my head on my knees and clutch the arm rest, but the arm rest just flops around. The Sudanese man is giggling uncontrollably. "This pilot is stupid!" he shrieks with a spitting emphasis on the word stupid. I tell him he's not helping things. Finally, the rain stops, and I can see flat land below. We land. No one moves. The pilot hurries down the aisle looking pissed. A few people applaud. The flight attendant has a nervous smile. I need a gin and tonic.
Osh. This ancient Silk Road city dates back to the 5th century B.C., although there's nothing around to indicate its ancient origins. The town is laid back, friendly, and host to a huge bazaar. Because of the political and artificial gerrymandering of the borders from the last century (with violent consequences back in 1990), there's a mix of every Central Asian ethnic group imaginable. by this time, I can pick out Uzbeks, Tajiks, Kyrgyz, and those most alien of them all--backpackers. Osh is also one of the jumping off points to cross the mountains into China.
Across Central Asia the melons are utterly delicious.
Street scene in Osh
2 comments:
Remember Divinity has a sense of humor, so just when you think of nothing but the pathetic quality of your plane as you hurl and bounce through a rain storm, you are sent a giggling Sudanese. I expect an imitation of the "Sudan" giggle upon your return---it will win you at least a gin and tonic.
Tu amiga querida
Sounds absolutely terrifying. I gather gin & tonics weren't on offer during the flight, although I'm not sure even a few of those would have made it any better. Hope you got to enjoy a very large drink afterwards!
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